Coral in Native American jewelry may be natural Mediterranean red coral, but much of today's “coral” is dyed bamboo coral, reconstituted coral, or other treated material, because true red coral is now scarce and tightly regulated. The honest answer depends entirely on the seller's disclosure.
Red coral has a long history in Southwestern jewelry. Deep-red Mediterranean coral (Corallium rubrum) reached the Southwest through centuries of trade — by way of Spain and later global markets — and became a treasured material, paired with turquoise in necklaces, inlay, and silverwork. That historic “ox-blood” coral is what many people picture.
Today the picture is more complicated. Harvesting of precious Mediterranean and Pacific red coral is restricted to protect slow-growing reefs, so genuine high-grade red coral is scarce and costly. Much of the affordable “coral” on the market is therefore bamboo coral or sponge coral that has been dyed red, or reconstituted coral pressed from coral powder and binder.
None of those materials is dishonest if it is disclosed — dyed bamboo coral is a legitimate, attractive material at its own price. The problem is only misrepresentation. Natural untreated red coral commands a premium; dyed or reconstituted material should be priced and described accordingly, and a careful seller will tell you which you are buying.
So ask directly: is the coral natural or dyed, and is it precious red coral or bamboo or sponge coral? Clues like dye pooling in crevices or an unnaturally uniform color can suggest treatment, but they are not proof. As with turquoise, written disclosure and a named maker are the real assurance.
The short version: “real coral” covers a spectrum, from rare natural red coral to dyed and reconstituted material. A trustworthy piece states exactly where on that spectrum its coral sits — the same standard that should apply to every stone and shell in fine Native American jewelry.