Mother of pearl is the iridescent inner lining of certain mollusk shells — the same lustrous substance, called nacre, that forms a pearl. Naturally white with a rainbow shimmer, it has long been cut for inlay and beads in Native American jewelry, often paired with turquoise, jet, and coral.
Mother of pearl is nacre — the smooth, iridescent material a mollusk secretes to line the inside of its shell and to coat any irritant that becomes a pearl. It comes from shells such as oysters, abalone, and large pearl oysters, and its shifting play of white, silver, pink, and green light is what makes it so prized.
In Southwestern jewelry, mother of pearl is valued mainly as a lapidary material. Cut into thin, precise shapes, its pale iridescence provides the “white” in inlay and mosaic designs — the light element that balances turquoise blue, coral red, and jet black in Zuni and Santo Domingo (Kewa) work. It is also strung as beads and used for carved overlays.
It is worth distinguishing the related shells you will encounter. White clam and conch shell give clean whites and pinks; abalone (sometimes called paua) gives the most vivid blue-green flash. All are forms of shell used for their natural color and luster, chosen by the artist for the palette a design needs. Because each shell carries its own natural color and figure, the white of mother of pearl is never flat — it shifts and glows differently depending on how the light strikes the carefully oriented piece.
As an organic shell material, mother of pearl is soft and should be treated gently — kept away from chemicals, perfume, and prolonged water, and wiped with a soft cloth. Harsh cleaners and abrasion dull its luster, while careful wear preserves the iridescence for years.
Genuine mother of pearl has depth and a living shimmer that printed or plastic imitations lack. In a fine piece, it should be identified accurately and the work attributed to a named artisan.